Culinary Spice Article - Baking & Cooking in High Altitude

Originally published in The News newspaper May 13, 2011

Q: I am new to Mexico City and am having trouble baking in this high altitude. What changes to I need to make, especially with breads and cakes? Nothing seems to come out right.

Janice, Mexico City

A: High altitude presents several challenges when preparing some foods. Baked goods may rise quickly only to completely collapse and foods that are cooked in water or moist heat take much longer to prepare. The higher the elevation, the lower the air pressure, so there is less pressure on leavened products and the surface of boiling liquids. As atmospheric pressure decreases, water boils at lower temperature. At sea level it boils at 212°F, while in Mexico City’s altitude of 7,400 feet, water boils at around 199°F. Adjustments to recipes need to be made to compensate for the reduced air pressure and water boiling point.

The following are some general guidelines to follow when cooking or baking in Mexico City. You will need to experiment a bit to find what adjustments work best for your recipes. In general, you should try minimal modifications the first time you prepare a recipe and adjust as needed subsequently.

Baking

* With less air pressure weighing them down, leavening agents such as baking powder tend to work too quickly at higher altitudes. By the end of baking time most of the gasses have escaped, resulting in deflated baked goods. You will need to reduce the amount of baking powder by 1/8 to 1/4 per teaspoon.

* For cakes leavened by egg whites, beat only to a soft peak consistency. This will keep the cake from expanding too much as it bakes and then collapsing, leaving the cake flat.

* Raise the oven temperature by about 25° and slightly shorten baking time. Invest in an oven thermometer so you know the exact temperature of your oven.

* Always pre-heat your oven for at least 15 minutes to bring it up to the correct temperature.

* Flour tends to be drier at high elevations, so increase the amount of liquid in the recipe by 3 to 4 tablespoons.

* Acidity helps batter set quickly in the oven's heat, so replacing regular milk with buttermilk, sour cream, or yogurt can be helpful.

* Decrease the amount of sugar by 1 to 3 tablespoons for each cup of sugar called for in the recipe.

* Cookies can sometimes spread too much or get tough. Try using less sugar, leavening, or fat. They may also need a little more liquid and flour, or try slightly increasing the oven heat (15°F to 25°F).

* Bring eggs to room temperature prior to use and don't over beat them.

* As a general rule, add an extra egg to cake, cookie and muffin mixes. The protein in the eggs strengthens the cell structure and makes up for dryness of the flour.

* These adjustments can be used in both boxed cake mixes or cakes made from scratch.

* Reduce the amount of yeast in bread dough, or shorten the rising time so it doesn’t over-proof (rise too much).

* To achieve good rise and a crisp crust at high altitude, begin baking bread with a pan of boiling water on the bottom of the oven, then remove the water for the final 15 minutes of baking.

Cooking & Frying

* Deep fry foods at a lower temperature for a longer amount of time. If you don’t lower the temperature, the outside will be crispy but the inside may still be raw.

* At 7,400 FT, beans take twice as long to cook than at sea level. I would recommend investing in a pressure cooker if you cook beans often.

* For stews and braises, expect to add about 2 hours to the cooking time.

* Pasta requires a strong roiling boil and longer cooking time.

* Above 5,000 feet, temperatures obtained with a double boiler are not high enough for maximum gelatinization of starch. Therefore, use direct heat rather than a double boiler for making puddings and cream pie fillings. Watch carefully so it doesn’t scorch.

Diet Strategies for the Foodie Set. Published in The News newspaper.

You live to throw unique dinner parties, you own a blowtorch for crème brûlée and a mandolin for paper-thin garnishes. You can make delicate gazpacho 'pearls' from agar powder and you smoke your own meats at home with exotic woods. You are officially a card-carrying Foodie. Congratulations.

But if you are like most of us, you could stand to lose a few pounds. What is the guilty gourmand to do? Are weight loss and a highly developed palate a doomed combination? We say no way. Here are some tips to get slim while looking fabulous in front of your eight-burner Viking stove.

If you love good food and consider cooking and eating to be one of the great pleasures in life, weight loss can be especially difficult. Many traditional diets expect you to eat low-quality foods or rely upon shakes or bars that will not fit your lifestyle or preferences. You can succeed at weight loss with a diet that embraces beautiful, fresh produce, lean meats and gourmet techniques.

Ideally, you are looking to get healthier and not just fit in to your high school jeans again. I would suggest concentrating on two major risk factors first: stomach fat and high cholesterol. Fortunately, you can address these problems through eating correctly.

Experts agree that it is much more dangerous to your health if you have an apple shape versus a pear shape, meaning more weight around your middle. Extra inches on the waist imply the most dangerous kind of fat, inviting heart disease and possibly shortening your life. The best way to combat this type of fat is to eat regularly and to manage stress. Stressed out people tend to store fat on the waist. So don't skip meals and renew that yoga class card.

Everybody is concerned with their cholesterol level these days and the way it can impact a person’s overall health. We all know the high cholesterol foods to avoid, but you can also benefit from eating certain cholesterol lowering foods. Here is a list of foods that lower cholesterol that are both delicious and healthy: Avocados, Olive Oil, Walnuts & Almonds, Garlic, Oatmeal, Blueberries, Grapes, Broccoli and Soy. Research new recipes using these foods and incorporate them in to your lifestyle a little at a time.

Here are some other tips that will easily fit in to an epicurean gastronome's lifestyle.

Season, Spice and Experiment
As a food lover, trying new cuisines and ingredients is a passion. Keep exploring this year and empty out that spice rack. What a great excuse to buy more! Highly spiced food means that you will use less salt and fat for flavor. Make up your own spice mixes to go with all the new vegetables and whole grains you will be sampling.

Green Tea
Not only does green tea contain antioxidants to keep you healthy, it also raises metabolism for hours. Add in a dash of cayenne powder to give your heart an extra boost.

The B Word
We all know that eating breakfast jumps starts your day and prevents overeating later on. If, like me, you just can't stomach traditional breakfast foods in the morning, eat lunch or dinner foods instead. I enjoy fresh green beans sautéed in olive oil, garlic and dry sherry then sprinkled with toasted walnuts first thing in the morning. You get the idea - there are no rules, except the one that you must eat something (healthy) for breakfast everyday.

Apple Cider Vinegar
A teaspoon or two of unfiltered, raw apple cider vinegar has been shown to greatly reduce belly fat. Sprinkle it on vegetables, use in salad dressings or even add it to your tea. Just don't cook with it or you will lose some of its healthful properties.

Have a Cocktail Party Every Day
This should be a breeze for gourmets. I am not talking about downing six martinis every night; this is more about savoring every bite and slowing down. Think of appetizers at a cocktail party, they are beautiful, strong flavored mini-bites of deliciousness. Instead of dumping a huge spoonful of whatever onto your plate, try designing a few small items that are visually appealing as well as healthy. Use meat more as a condiment and play around with colors, flavors and textures. Use smaller, elegant plates, pour a glass of your favorite red, turn off the TV, put flowers on the table and eat slowly. Mindful eating will reward you with a sensual experience that will delight your inner hedonist.

Embrace the New Food Trends for 2011
You know that mini cupcakes are soooo 2010. Be the first of your friends to throw a gourmet popsicle party, they are low fat and delicious - try cucumber-chili, rosewater or how about chocolate-wasabi?

Also, take a jump on the local-is-better bandwagon. Buy organic, in-season produce from your local grower, or start your own garden. If you live in Mexico City, Sembradores Urbanos (Urban Sowers), located in Colonia Roma, can help you set up your own garden patch, even if you live on the 15th floor of a high-rise. Through buying products from organizations such as Productos de la Chinampa, you will support local farmers. This group is made up of farmers using the 1,000-year-old techniques still used on the floating gardens of Xochimilco. Eating locally and in season - you can't get more modern than that.

The more you do to spend time in the preparation of food, the greater your enjoyment of meals will be. We aren't born loving vegetables, fruits and whole grains, but they are tastes we can develop. Just like with children, it takes trying a new food about 10 - 15 times before we adopt it in to our repertoire. Fortunately, as a foodie, you are already open to trying new tastes and textures. You are way ahead in the weight loss game.

Juliet Lambert is the owner of Spice Catering in Mexico City. She may be reached at juliet@spicemexico.com

CAJA
Sembradores Urbanos
Workshops and advice on urban gardening
Callejón Durango - no number, corner of Plaza Romerita
Colinia Roma Norte
55.3674.8690
http://sembradoresurbanos.org

De La Chinampa
For a list of retail locations, or to inquire about home delivery:
contacto@delachinampa.com
http://www.delachinampa.com

Culinary Spice Article - Originally Published in The News Newspaper Nov. 6, 2010. Middle Eastern Food in Mexico City and Oaxaca's Famous Seven Moles

Q: I recently moved to the city and am looking for good Middle Eastern food. Where can I find hummus and other similar ingredients? I am looking for both restaurants and stores.
Patricia, Mexico City

A: I have saved this question because we have some good information on Middle Eastern food in this section today. For restaurants, you can do an online search for restaurant guides to Mexico City. There are Lebanese and Middle Eastern restaurants in practically all areas in the city, with many concentrated in the Centro Historico, Condesa and Polanco neighborhoods. There is a small restaurant in Condesa that I go to when I have a falafel craving.

Most major supermarket chains such as Superama and Costco carry ready-made hummus and pita bread. Libanius, the company highlighted in this section today, makes a good hummus in a variety of flavors such as artichoke and olive. There are several brands to choose from. Some are more lemony or garlicky than others, so try a few to find your favorite.

Hummus is easy and inexpensive to make at home. If you haven’t tried it, you may be surprised by how simple it is. Hummus is essentially a purée of garbanzo beans (also called chickpeas), tahini (sesame paste), garlic, lemon, olive oil and water. I like my hummus with an insane amount of garlic, but you may want to try a blanching or roasting method if raw garlic is too strong for you.

Hummus is a very nutritious food. It is high in vitamins C and B6 as well as vitamin E, folate and thiamin. It has a high content of important minerals like manganese and copper and also contains calcium, iron, magnesium and zinc. It is a good protein source as it contains 20 essential amino acids, making it a common choice for vegetarians. Because of the tahini paste, hummus does contain about 10% fat, but it is the “good” fat. The fat in hummus contains Omega 3 fatty acids, which aid in combating depression and anxiety.


Q: My friend told me she heard there are seven famous moles of Oaxaca, but we don’t know what they are. I only know the traditional mole poblano (from Puebla). Can you tell us the names of the moles and how they differ?
Syliva, Ajijic

Oaxaca is internationally known for it’s unique cuisine. Of the many delicacies that come from this beautiful southern state, the “Seven Moles of Oaxaca” are arguably the most famous. Here they are, with the ingredients that make them unique.
1. Mole Negro – The most complex, with six chilies: chilguacle, mulatto, pasilla, ancho, guaillo and chilpocle. Also chocolate, plantain, ginger, allspice and peanuts.
2. Mole Rojo - Chocolate, guajillo and ancho chilie, peanuts, oregano, cinnamon and sesame
3. Mole Coloradito – Ancho and pasilla chilie, sesame, almonds, oregano, cinnamon
4. Mole Amarillo – Guajillo, ancho and costeño chiles, hierba santa and tomatillos. Thickened with corn dough.
5. Mole Verde – Squash seeds (pepitos), tomatilos and pecans or walnuts
6. Mole Chíchilo – Tomatillos, green chilie, cumin, cloves. Thickened with corn dough.
7. Mancha Manteles – Ancho Chilie, tomato, garlic, cloves. This mole is served with sliced plantains and pineapple.

The above list is not complete (most moles contain over 20 ingredients), but it gives you an idea of the main flavors. If you are interested in moles, it is a good idea to make one from scratch at least once in order to fully appreciate all that goes in to these wonderful mixtures.

A Caterer's Take on the Holiday Meal

A CATERER'S TAKE ON THE HOLIDAY MEAL
By Juliet Lambert

As the owner of a catering company, clients are always asking me to reveal the tricks and tips that we use in our kitchen. This time of the year brings out lots of questions about how to make the perfect holiday meal. Although we love to experiment with new flavor combinations at Spice Catering, I am a firm traditionalist when it comes to the all-important Thanksgiving or Christmas meal. Here are some tips that will help your meal turn out perfectly while allowing you to actually enjoy your own party - what a concept!

"Caterers plan, make lists, repeat"

The key to any good party is to plan it out first. Go over your menu to make sure that it's balanced, then make lists: shopping lists, errand lists, cleaning lists, guest lists, cooking lists. These will help you map out the event. On the day of the party, I take 15 minutes to lie down and visualize how I want the party to go. This may seem new-agey, but it's exactly what athletes do before a big game. By doing this, you mentally go through a checklist and invariably remember something you forgot.

"Cooking is an art, baking is a science."

In my experience, people generally fall in to two categories: those who like to cook and those who like to bake. It makes sense since the two tasks require very different skill sets. A cook or chef likes to play around and experiment with ingredients, and rarely will something taste exactly the same each time. The baker must be aware of chemical reactions and follow a strict recipe with measured ingredients. When I was growing up, my sister was the baker and I was the cook. While she carefully weighed out her flour on a scale, I was searching the cupboards for interesting spices that I could dump in to my soup.

As a rule, don't be afraid to try new things, but the holidays is not the time to indulge in 'free-association' cooking experiments. If, like me, everything you bake turns out to resemble a hockey puck, then by all means, buy your cakes and breads from a bakery. If you are famous for your baked goods, then ask a guest to bring the soup or order-out items you are not confidant making.

Speaking of guests, I have found that people like to help, so take them up on their offers. Because people's guest list almost always includes family members and close friends, it's not only appropriate, but also more fun to invite guests to contribute to the meal. It's best if the host prepares items requiring long-cooking times, complicated last-minute preparation or messy (non-portable) items. The most successful dishes to farm out are baked desserts, breads, salads, soups, wine/alcohol, homemade condiments like relishes or cranberry sauce and re-heatable casseroles.

Along these lines, enlist children to help in the preparation - how else are they going to learn? It may take a little longer, but they will be proud to be a part of the team, they'll learn new skills and you will be instilling your family's holiday traditions in to them - which is what it's all about.

"If nothing else - brine that bird!"

If you are serving turkey, you must brine it. No excuses. Brining will save you from committing the biggest sin of all: dry meat. As the turkey sits in brine it absorbs liquid that will be lost during the cooking process, thus ensuring a moist bird. To prepare the brine, dissolve one cup each of kosher salt and sugar to every gallon of cold water. The turkey needs to sit in the brine in the refrigerator one hour for every pound. Average 14 pound turkey = 14 hours. Simple, but so worth it.

"About Sugar & Fat and Other Tips"

As far as I'm concerned, cream and butter are honored guests at the holiday table. You can diet the other 364 days of the year. If a recipe calls for cream and butter, please use them. Now is not the time to use puréed tofu in place of cream cheese. In catering, it's all about the 'mouth feel', which you only get from full-fat ingredients. And no, margarine is not the same as butter.

We use sugar in a variety of savory dishes. Most home cooks don't realize that a teaspoon of sugar will enhance any meat or vegetable dish. Even if the recipe doesn't call for sugar, adding a teaspoon of sugar to the dish will brighten the flavor and round out the overall taste.

A caterer's trick we sometimes use is all-purpose cooking spray. If your pie is looking a bit drab, spray lightly with cooking spray and dust with regular sugar. This technique can also be used to brighten up stuffed mushrooms or any vegetable side dish. A drizzle of olive oil over a bowl of soup has the same pleasing effect.
Make sure your menu is balanced, not all meat or spicy items. Provide some fresh fruits and vegetables for those who may be dieting or are vegetarian. Think of textures - a mixture of soft and crunchy foods. Don't repeat intensely flavored ingredients such as sage or basil in too many dishes, aim for variety.

Catering and rental companies can provide dinner wear and glass wear if you do not have enough for all of your guests. Most companies will also offer a delivery service if you want to order side dishes you don't have time to make. If you do as much preparation such as cleaning and cutting of vegetables as you can the day before, you will be able relax and enjoy your party.

If things don't work out exactly as you planned, don't stress out. Julia Child once had a fallen chocolate souffle and supposedly quipped, "We'll just put it in a pretty bowl and call it the most delicious pudding we've ever tasted."

Culinary Spice Article - Published in The News newspaper on September 24, 2010

Q: I have heard that eating watermelon seeds can help with “Traveler’s Sickness”. Is that true? Jessica in Mexico City



A: If you like the taste of them, watermelon seeds are not harmful and despite what your uncle may have told you, they won’t cause a watermelon to grow in your stomach! The seeds of watermelon are a good source of antioxidants, protein and fiber, but I don’t think they can prevent stomach problems while traveling.



You are probably thinking of pumpkin seeds, called pepitas in Mexico. Along with being delicious, pepitas are a traditional remedy for parasites. They have properties that help expel parasites such as tapeworms and roundworms. They can be found in markets throughout the country, usually already roasted and salted. You can make your own by spreading them on a cookie sheet and roasting at a low temperature for 15 minutes, then sprinkling with salt. Roasting them for a short time at a low temperature helps to preserve their healthy oils.



In addition to helping with parasites, pepitas have many nutritional qualities. They contain protein, iron, vitamins B & E, fiber, oil, and minerals. Pepitas aid milk production in lactating mothers and are used to reduce postpartum swelling of the hands and feet. The carotenoids and the omega-3 fats found in pepitas may have potential prostate benefits. They are high in zinc, which is also important to prostate health.



As with most seeds and nuts, pepitas have high oil content so they will go rancid quickly. Purchase in amounts you will use within a week or so. Store in a tightly sealed plastic bag. Pepitas can also be placed in freezer proof bags and frozen for up to 6 months or more.



Pepitas are great eaten plain as a snack; or you can put them in salads, sautéed vegetables or over your oatmeal in the morning. Give burgers a nutritional boost by adding ground pepitas to the meat before cooking. I like to puree pepitas for use in salad dressings. If you are suffering from stomach problems, try grinding pumpkin seeds into a powder, mix with aloe vera juice and drink on an empty stomach in the morning.



Q: What is the best way to get strong smells off of my wooden cutting board? My apples tasted like garlic this morning. I don’t want to use bleach, thanks. Kurt, Mexico City



A: The easiest way I have found to remove smells from wooden cutting boards is to sprinkle the board with kosher salt and scrub with a lime that is cut in half. The salt draws out moisture from the wood and the lime contains anti-bacterial properties. If this doesn’t work for you and you don’t want to use bleach, make a slurry of baking soda and boiling water. Scrub well and let it sit for 10 minutes. Rinse off and the smell should be gone.



If you have the room, you may want to consider buying a separate board to use when cutting food with strong odors such as onions and garlic. Be sure to scrub your wooden cutting boards well and regularly coat them in mineral oil to maintain their surface.

U.S. Embassy Cocktail Party

Last night we catered a cocktail party for the Public Affairs section. The guests were mainly reporters from Mexican TV and Newspapers, so we doubled the amount of food! From our experience, reporters arrive hungry, and last night was no different.

The host served some wonderful 2006 Mondavi that we shared in the kitchen after the gig - now that is the type of cient we love!

The menu for the evening:

Passed Appetizer Menú

Served Warm

Classic Gougères
Warm Gruyére Cheese Puffs with a touch of Cayenne

Antipasto Bites
Peppered Italian Salami with Pesto & Caramelized Onions baked in Mini-Tarts

Warm Brie Bites
Creamy Brie with Red Grapes in Crispy Wonton Cups

Served Room Temperature

Smoked Salmon Canapés
Smoked Salmon Mousse with Capers served in a Cucumber Cup

Beef Crostini
Tender Beef Tenderloin Crostini with Dijon Cream

Grilled Chevre Crostini

Goat Cheese with Tri-Color Marinated Roasted Peppers

Thai Salad Rolls
Fresh Rice Rolls of Marinated Tofu & Julienned Vegetables with Teriyaki Dipping Sauce

Dessert

Mini Brownie Bites with Rich Chocolate Frosting
Fresh Strawberries

Culinary Spice Article: Curious Green Chorizo & Storing Herbs & Spices.

Q: I saw chorizo in the grocery store that was green! Can you tell me what it is made of and how it’s used?

Mattie, Mexico City

A: Chorizo Verde is originally from Toluca, but now can be found in many parts of Mexico. It gets its distinctive green color from a mixture of chile poblano, spinach, chard, cilantro and parsley. The loud neon green chorizo usually found in supermarkets in Mexico City also contains food coloring. The traditional style has a darker green hue and can easily be found in local markets throughout the city, such as Mercado Medellin in Colonia Roma. Along with the added herbs, chorizo verde tastes similar to the regular red variety and the two types can be used interchangeably.

Q: What is the best way to store my dried spices and fresh herbs?

Jenna, Mexico City

A: Three factors affect the quality of spices: light, humidity and oxygen. The goal is to retain potency as long as possible, so store spices in tightly sealed containers away from light and heat. Although the most convenient place for your spice rack may be above your stove, moving your spices to a different location will keep them fresh much longer.

Whole herbs and spices last much longer than crushed or ground. Ground spices, with greater surface exposed, tend to lose their aromatic oils quickly. They also deteriorate faster than whole spices, so it’s best to buy the whole form and crush or grind just before using. This can be done with a mortar and pestle or a coffee grinder that is used only for this purpose. Lightly toasting spices in a dry pan before you grind them will freshen and release their natural oils.

Check spices for freshness regularly. The simplest way to do this is to smell them. The spice needs to be replaced if it lacks a strong aroma. If stored properly, ground spices will retain their flavor for six months to one year, and whole spices can last up to two years. Do not buy more than you will use within that time. A good tip is to write the date of purchase on the container so you can replace it as needed.

Refrigerating paprika, chili powder, and red pepper will preserve their vibrant colors. Buy from a purveyor with high turnover of product in order to get the freshest spice possible. Remember that high quality spices will last longer than cheaper varieties, and a screw-cap container is better than a flip-top box because it can be tightly resealed.

There are several methods to store fresh herbs. You can place them in a reseal-able plastic freezer bag and place in the refrigerator vegetable drawer. Avoid overly cold spots in the refrigerator, as the herbs will get damaged. Basil will turn black if it gets too cold.

You can store leafy herbs such as cilantro, parsley, and mint like fresh cut flowers. Trim off the bottom of the stems and place them in a glass with water. Cover the bunch of herbs with a perforated plastic bag to allow for some air circulation. If not using right away, change the water every couple of days. If treated carefully, most herbs should remain in good shape for about one week, although their flavor will diminish the longer they are stored.