Thursday, June 3, 2010

Culinary Spice Article. From The News Newspaper. Original publish date: May 28th, 2010


Q: A lot of Mexican recipes call for Epazote. What is it and where can I buy it?
Allison in Mexico City

A Epazote is common herb in Mexican cooking. It has been used in Mexican cuisine for thousands of years, dating back to the Aztecs who used it for cooking as well as for medicinal purposes. It has a distinct flavor and is used to season a variety of dishes including beans, soups, salads and quesadillas. Its flavor is difficult to describe - I have heard the taste compared to smelly socks, gasoline, mint and lemon. But don’t let that scare you off, you just have to try it for yourself. Like cilantro, people tend to either love it or hate it. It is very strong, so use it sparingly is dishes. It will overpower the entire dish if you overdo it.

Use epazote to flavor soups, stews, meats, beans, moles or added to fillings for quesadillas and empanadas. It is best known for using with black beans, providing a rich, full flavor. It is not particularly good chopped fresh and sprinkled on top of dishes, as epazote is a more of a cooking herb. It is usually added toward the end of cooking to prevent bitterness in the finished product.. Epazote pairs well with cilantro, lime, chipotle peppers, huitlacoche (corn fungus), cheeses, pork fat, black beans, pinto beans, cumin, garlic, onion, corn, and squash blossoms.

Epazote contains compounds which act as an anti-gas agent and is used to relieve the abdominal discomfort that can come from eating beans. It is used traditionally to expel worms, kill parasites, increase perspiration and urination, stimulate digestion and as a natural remedy for menstrual cramps. Be careful as epazote can be poisonous if eaten in very large quantities.

You can find fresh epazote in most mercados and supermarkets around the city. It looks a bit like flat-leaf parsley, but the leaves are larger and pointed with serrated edges. Store fresh epazote in a glass of water, like a bouquet of flowers, or refrigerated wrapped in damp paper towels. Fresh epazote is best, but f you buy dried, make sure you get the leaves and not the stems. A teaspoon of crumbled epazote is equal to about six fresh leaves. There is no substitute for epozote. If you cannot find it, leave it out and use more of the other seasonings in the dish.


Q: What is an easy way to shred chicken meat for tacos?
Jack in Mexico City

Shredded chicken is necessary for making tacos, enchiladas, tostadas and stuffed chilies, among other important Mexican dishes. The best way I have found to do it is to simmer bone-in chicken in broth. The bones and seasoning add flavor to the chicken. The usual flavors to use are chicken broth, onions, garlic, peppercorns, salt and fresh chilies. You can also add in some of the sauce and spices that you will use in the final dish.

Simmer, do not boil, the chicken until very tender, about one hour. Cover and let sit until cool enough to handle. One way to shred the chicken is to use two forks, one to steady the chicken and the other fork to pull apart the meat, but I find it easier to just use your hands. The thickness of the shredded chicken depends on the dish you are making. It you need a finer shred, chop the chicken in to smaller pieces after shredding. If the chicken is a bit dry, mix in some cooking broth or salsa.

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