Culinary Spice Article. From The News Newspaper. Original publish date: May 28th, 2010

Q: A lot of Mexican recipes call for Epazote. What is it and where can I buy it?
Allison in Mexico City

A Epazote is common herb in Mexican cooking. It has been used in Mexican cuisine for thousands of years, dating back to the Aztecs who used it for cooking as well as for medicinal purposes. It has a distinct flavor and is used to season a variety of dishes including beans, soups, salads and quesadillas. Its flavor is difficult to describe - I have heard the taste compared to smelly socks, gasoline, mint and lemon. But don’t let that scare you off, you just have to try it for yourself. Like cilantro, people tend to either love it or hate it. It is very strong, so use it sparingly is dishes. It will overpower the entire dish if you overdo it.

Use epazote to flavor soups, stews, meats, beans, moles or added to fillings for quesadillas and empanadas. It is best known for using with black beans, providing a rich, full flavor. It is not particularly good chopped fresh and sprinkled on top of dishes, as epazote is a more of a cooking herb. It is usually added toward the end of cooking to prevent bitterness in the finished product.. Epazote pairs well with cilantro, lime, chipotle peppers, huitlacoche (corn fungus), cheeses, pork fat, black beans, pinto beans, cumin, garlic, onion, corn, and squash blossoms.

Epazote contains compounds which act as an anti-gas agent and is used to relieve the abdominal discomfort that can come from eating beans. It is used traditionally to expel worms, kill parasites, increase perspiration and urination, stimulate digestion and as a natural remedy for menstrual cramps. Be careful as epazote can be poisonous if eaten in very large quantities.

You can find fresh epazote in most mercados and supermarkets around the city. It looks a bit like flat-leaf parsley, but the leaves are larger and pointed with serrated edges. Store fresh epazote in a glass of water, like a bouquet of flowers, or refrigerated wrapped in damp paper towels. Fresh epazote is best, but f you buy dried, make sure you get the leaves and not the stems. A teaspoon of crumbled epazote is equal to about six fresh leaves. There is no substitute for epozote. If you cannot find it, leave it out and use more of the other seasonings in the dish.


Q: What is an easy way to shred chicken meat for tacos?
Jack in Mexico City

Shredded chicken is necessary for making tacos, enchiladas, tostadas and stuffed chilies, among other important Mexican dishes. The best way I have found to do it is to simmer bone-in chicken in broth. The bones and seasoning add flavor to the chicken. The usual flavors to use are chicken broth, onions, garlic, peppercorns, salt and fresh chilies. You can also add in some of the sauce and spices that you will use in the final dish.

Simmer, do not boil, the chicken until very tender, about one hour. Cover and let sit until cool enough to handle. One way to shred the chicken is to use two forks, one to steady the chicken and the other fork to pull apart the meat, but I find it easier to just use your hands. The thickness of the shredded chicken depends on the dish you are making. It you need a finer shred, chop the chicken in to smaller pieces after shredding. If the chicken is a bit dry, mix in some cooking broth or salsa.

Culinary Spice Article. Published in The News newpaper: March 12, 2010

Q: I am confused when it comes to fish. I know that it contains healthy oils, but I am worried about mercury and pollution levels. Is it really safe to eat?
Richard, Mexico City


A: Fish can be very nutritious and is packed with omega-3s, B vitamins and lean protein. Unfortunately fish can also have some unhealthy contaminants and nearly all fish and shellfish contain traces of mercury. For most people, this is not a great concern as the body will naturally remove mercury from the system. However, over time, a steady diet rich in fish containing high levels of mercury can cause unhealthy accumulation levels in the body. You can limit your exposure to other environmental contaminants, such as PCBs, by trimming and skinning your fish. Unfortunately, while mercury is relatively easy to eliminate from your body, PCBs can stay in your body fat for years, so limit your exposure by never buying fish from waters known to be polluted.

Mercury affects brain development and the nervous system, so it is very important for young children and pregnant women to be aware of this risk. The FDA in the United States has released guidelines for children and women who are pregnant or trying to become pregnant. These guidelines state that no more than 12 oz of low mercury fish should be consumed weekly. Highest mercury fish should be avoided and high mercury fish should be kept to only three 6-oz servings per month. Below is a snapshot of fish with the highest and lowest levels of mercury, with their Spanish names. For a complete list please do an Internet search on www.FDA.gov.

These fish contain the highest levels of mercury and should probably be avoided if you are in the at-risk group:

Mackerel / Cabella
Marlin / Marlin
Shark / Cazon
Swordfish / Pez Espada
Tuna - (Canned Albacore & Ahi) / Atun

Here is a list of fish and shellfish that contain the lowest levels of mercury and can usually be eaten in moderation:

Anchovy / Anchoa
Catfish / Perro del Norte
Clam / Almejas
Crab / Jaiba
Crawfish/Crayfish / Langostino
Flounder / Platija
Herring / Arenque
Oyster / Ostiones
Perch / Perca
Salmon / Salmon
Sardine / Alacha
Scallop / Callo de Hacha
Shrimp / Camarones
Squid / Calamar
Tilapia / Tilapia
Trout / Trucha

Fish is a very healthy food when eaten in moderation. It is rich in omega-3 fatty acids, which are well known to protect the heart. Omega-3s help lower blood pressure, decrease triglyceride levels and are good for the kidneys. Fish is not the only source of omega-3, however. It is also present in flaxseeds, chia seeds, nuts and some spices such as cloves and dried oregano. Of course, there are now a variety of products available that are fortified with omega-3s as well. If you are really concerned that you are not getting enough of these nutrients, consider taking a supplement. There are some good brands that contain omega 3, 6 and 9, which are the complete essential fatty acids everyone needs.

Culinary Spice Column. From The News Newspaper, Origingal Publish date: August 18, 2009. Chile Rellenos and Queso Oaxaca

Q: I made chiles rellenos recently and they turned out flat and greasy. Do you have any tips on making them?
Soledad, Mexico City

Chiles rellenos are one of my favorite splurge dishes. Mild chiles stuffed with cheese, dipped in an egg batter, fried and served bathed in a light tomato sauce, what’s not to love? If your chiles are too greasy, the most likely culprit is the oil. The key to frying anything is to make sure the oil is hot enough. Heat your oil to 365 – 375F, or 185 – 190C degrees. If you don’t have a thermometer, just put a drop of batter in to the oil. If it immediately floats to the surface the oil is the right temperature. The oil is not hot enough if the batter sinks to the bottom of the pan.

Check your egg batter as well. A good batter should have enough body to withstand frying. Separate the eggs and whip the whites to moderately stiff peaks. This will ensure that your chiles do not end up flat. You should lightly dust your stuffed chile in flour before dipping in to the egg batter so that the batter clings to the chile. Place the chile in enough hot oil to cover it halfway. Spoon oil over the top half of the chile so that it cooks evenly. Working in batches, fry the chiles until browned, about four minutes, allowing the oil to return to the right temperature between batches. Transfer to paper towels and drain well. Serving them in a light tomato sauce will help cut any remaining greasy taste.



Q: What is the difference between Queso de Oaxaca and Quesillo?
Karen, Ajijic

In Mexico the two names are interchangeable. This cheese is named after the state of Oaxaca in southern Mexico where it was first made. Queso de Oaxaca is called quesillo in the state of Oaxaca. Elsewhere in the country this mild mozzarella-like cheese is generically called queso de Oaxaca. Often shaped in to what resembles a ball of rope, this cheese is perfect for quesadillas and queso fundido because of its wonderful melting quality. It is the original and authentic string cheese, perfect for snacking. Be aware, however, because if you are in Oaxaca and ask for queso de Oaxaca you will receive an entirely different type of cheese. It is a sharper, harder cheese similar to cotija.