Tuesday, June 29, 2010

Culinary Spice Article: Curious Green Chorizo & Storing Herbs & Spices.



Q: I saw chorizo in the grocery store that was green! Can you tell me what it is made of and how it’s used?

Mattie, Mexico City

A: Chorizo Verde is originally from Toluca, but now can be found in many parts of Mexico. It gets its distinctive green color from a mixture of chile poblano, spinach, chard, cilantro and parsley. The loud neon green chorizo usually found in supermarkets in Mexico City also contains food coloring. The traditional style has a darker green hue and can easily be found in local markets throughout the city, such as Mercado Medellin in Colonia Roma. Along with the added herbs, chorizo verde tastes similar to the regular red variety and the two types can be used interchangeably.

Q: What is the best way to store my dried spices and fresh herbs?

Jenna, Mexico City

A: Three factors affect the quality of spices: light, humidity and oxygen. The goal is to retain potency as long as possible, so store spices in tightly sealed containers away from light and heat. Although the most convenient place for your spice rack may be above your stove, moving your spices to a different location will keep them fresh much longer.

Whole herbs and spices last much longer than crushed or ground. Ground spices, with greater surface exposed, tend to lose their aromatic oils quickly. They also deteriorate faster than whole spices, so it’s best to buy the whole form and crush or grind just before using. This can be done with a mortar and pestle or a coffee grinder that is used only for this purpose. Lightly toasting spices in a dry pan before you grind them will freshen and release their natural oils.

Check spices for freshness regularly. The simplest way to do this is to smell them. The spice needs to be replaced if it lacks a strong aroma. If stored properly, ground spices will retain their flavor for six months to one year, and whole spices can last up to two years. Do not buy more than you will use within that time. A good tip is to write the date of purchase on the container so you can replace it as needed.

Refrigerating paprika, chili powder, and red pepper will preserve their vibrant colors. Buy from a purveyor with high turnover of product in order to get the freshest spice possible. Remember that high quality spices will last longer than cheaper varieties, and a screw-cap container is better than a flip-top box because it can be tightly resealed.

There are several methods to store fresh herbs. You can place them in a reseal-able plastic freezer bag and place in the refrigerator vegetable drawer. Avoid overly cold spots in the refrigerator, as the herbs will get damaged. Basil will turn black if it gets too cold.

You can store leafy herbs such as cilantro, parsley, and mint like fresh cut flowers. Trim off the bottom of the stems and place them in a glass with water. Cover the bunch of herbs with a perforated plastic bag to allow for some air circulation. If not using right away, change the water every couple of days. If treated carefully, most herbs should remain in good shape for about one week, although their flavor will diminish the longer they are stored.

Thursday, June 3, 2010

Culinary Spice Article. From The News Newspaper. Original publish date: May 28th, 2010


Q: A lot of Mexican recipes call for Epazote. What is it and where can I buy it?
Allison in Mexico City

A Epazote is common herb in Mexican cooking. It has been used in Mexican cuisine for thousands of years, dating back to the Aztecs who used it for cooking as well as for medicinal purposes. It has a distinct flavor and is used to season a variety of dishes including beans, soups, salads and quesadillas. Its flavor is difficult to describe - I have heard the taste compared to smelly socks, gasoline, mint and lemon. But don’t let that scare you off, you just have to try it for yourself. Like cilantro, people tend to either love it or hate it. It is very strong, so use it sparingly is dishes. It will overpower the entire dish if you overdo it.

Use epazote to flavor soups, stews, meats, beans, moles or added to fillings for quesadillas and empanadas. It is best known for using with black beans, providing a rich, full flavor. It is not particularly good chopped fresh and sprinkled on top of dishes, as epazote is a more of a cooking herb. It is usually added toward the end of cooking to prevent bitterness in the finished product.. Epazote pairs well with cilantro, lime, chipotle peppers, huitlacoche (corn fungus), cheeses, pork fat, black beans, pinto beans, cumin, garlic, onion, corn, and squash blossoms.

Epazote contains compounds which act as an anti-gas agent and is used to relieve the abdominal discomfort that can come from eating beans. It is used traditionally to expel worms, kill parasites, increase perspiration and urination, stimulate digestion and as a natural remedy for menstrual cramps. Be careful as epazote can be poisonous if eaten in very large quantities.

You can find fresh epazote in most mercados and supermarkets around the city. It looks a bit like flat-leaf parsley, but the leaves are larger and pointed with serrated edges. Store fresh epazote in a glass of water, like a bouquet of flowers, or refrigerated wrapped in damp paper towels. Fresh epazote is best, but f you buy dried, make sure you get the leaves and not the stems. A teaspoon of crumbled epazote is equal to about six fresh leaves. There is no substitute for epozote. If you cannot find it, leave it out and use more of the other seasonings in the dish.


Q: What is an easy way to shred chicken meat for tacos?
Jack in Mexico City

Shredded chicken is necessary for making tacos, enchiladas, tostadas and stuffed chilies, among other important Mexican dishes. The best way I have found to do it is to simmer bone-in chicken in broth. The bones and seasoning add flavor to the chicken. The usual flavors to use are chicken broth, onions, garlic, peppercorns, salt and fresh chilies. You can also add in some of the sauce and spices that you will use in the final dish.

Simmer, do not boil, the chicken until very tender, about one hour. Cover and let sit until cool enough to handle. One way to shred the chicken is to use two forks, one to steady the chicken and the other fork to pull apart the meat, but I find it easier to just use your hands. The thickness of the shredded chicken depends on the dish you are making. It you need a finer shred, chop the chicken in to smaller pieces after shredding. If the chicken is a bit dry, mix in some cooking broth or salsa.