Culinary Spice Article - Originally Published in The News Newspaper Nov. 6, 2010. Middle Eastern Food in Mexico City and Oaxaca's Famous Seven Moles

Q: I recently moved to the city and am looking for good Middle Eastern food. Where can I find hummus and other similar ingredients? I am looking for both restaurants and stores.
Patricia, Mexico City

A: I have saved this question because we have some good information on Middle Eastern food in this section today. For restaurants, you can do an online search for restaurant guides to Mexico City. There are Lebanese and Middle Eastern restaurants in practically all areas in the city, with many concentrated in the Centro Historico, Condesa and Polanco neighborhoods. There is a small restaurant in Condesa that I go to when I have a falafel craving.

Most major supermarket chains such as Superama and Costco carry ready-made hummus and pita bread. Libanius, the company highlighted in this section today, makes a good hummus in a variety of flavors such as artichoke and olive. There are several brands to choose from. Some are more lemony or garlicky than others, so try a few to find your favorite.

Hummus is easy and inexpensive to make at home. If you haven’t tried it, you may be surprised by how simple it is. Hummus is essentially a purée of garbanzo beans (also called chickpeas), tahini (sesame paste), garlic, lemon, olive oil and water. I like my hummus with an insane amount of garlic, but you may want to try a blanching or roasting method if raw garlic is too strong for you.

Hummus is a very nutritious food. It is high in vitamins C and B6 as well as vitamin E, folate and thiamin. It has a high content of important minerals like manganese and copper and also contains calcium, iron, magnesium and zinc. It is a good protein source as it contains 20 essential amino acids, making it a common choice for vegetarians. Because of the tahini paste, hummus does contain about 10% fat, but it is the “good” fat. The fat in hummus contains Omega 3 fatty acids, which aid in combating depression and anxiety.


Q: My friend told me she heard there are seven famous moles of Oaxaca, but we don’t know what they are. I only know the traditional mole poblano (from Puebla). Can you tell us the names of the moles and how they differ?
Syliva, Ajijic

Oaxaca is internationally known for it’s unique cuisine. Of the many delicacies that come from this beautiful southern state, the “Seven Moles of Oaxaca” are arguably the most famous. Here they are, with the ingredients that make them unique.
1. Mole Negro – The most complex, with six chilies: chilguacle, mulatto, pasilla, ancho, guaillo and chilpocle. Also chocolate, plantain, ginger, allspice and peanuts.
2. Mole Rojo - Chocolate, guajillo and ancho chilie, peanuts, oregano, cinnamon and sesame
3. Mole Coloradito – Ancho and pasilla chilie, sesame, almonds, oregano, cinnamon
4. Mole Amarillo – Guajillo, ancho and costeño chiles, hierba santa and tomatillos. Thickened with corn dough.
5. Mole Verde – Squash seeds (pepitos), tomatilos and pecans or walnuts
6. Mole Chíchilo – Tomatillos, green chilie, cumin, cloves. Thickened with corn dough.
7. Mancha Manteles – Ancho Chilie, tomato, garlic, cloves. This mole is served with sliced plantains and pineapple.

The above list is not complete (most moles contain over 20 ingredients), but it gives you an idea of the main flavors. If you are interested in moles, it is a good idea to make one from scratch at least once in order to fully appreciate all that goes in to these wonderful mixtures.

A Caterer's Take on the Holiday Meal

A CATERER'S TAKE ON THE HOLIDAY MEAL
By Juliet Lambert

As the owner of a catering company, clients are always asking me to reveal the tricks and tips that we use in our kitchen. This time of the year brings out lots of questions about how to make the perfect holiday meal. Although we love to experiment with new flavor combinations at Spice Catering, I am a firm traditionalist when it comes to the all-important Thanksgiving or Christmas meal. Here are some tips that will help your meal turn out perfectly while allowing you to actually enjoy your own party - what a concept!

"Caterers plan, make lists, repeat"

The key to any good party is to plan it out first. Go over your menu to make sure that it's balanced, then make lists: shopping lists, errand lists, cleaning lists, guest lists, cooking lists. These will help you map out the event. On the day of the party, I take 15 minutes to lie down and visualize how I want the party to go. This may seem new-agey, but it's exactly what athletes do before a big game. By doing this, you mentally go through a checklist and invariably remember something you forgot.

"Cooking is an art, baking is a science."

In my experience, people generally fall in to two categories: those who like to cook and those who like to bake. It makes sense since the two tasks require very different skill sets. A cook or chef likes to play around and experiment with ingredients, and rarely will something taste exactly the same each time. The baker must be aware of chemical reactions and follow a strict recipe with measured ingredients. When I was growing up, my sister was the baker and I was the cook. While she carefully weighed out her flour on a scale, I was searching the cupboards for interesting spices that I could dump in to my soup.

As a rule, don't be afraid to try new things, but the holidays is not the time to indulge in 'free-association' cooking experiments. If, like me, everything you bake turns out to resemble a hockey puck, then by all means, buy your cakes and breads from a bakery. If you are famous for your baked goods, then ask a guest to bring the soup or order-out items you are not confidant making.

Speaking of guests, I have found that people like to help, so take them up on their offers. Because people's guest list almost always includes family members and close friends, it's not only appropriate, but also more fun to invite guests to contribute to the meal. It's best if the host prepares items requiring long-cooking times, complicated last-minute preparation or messy (non-portable) items. The most successful dishes to farm out are baked desserts, breads, salads, soups, wine/alcohol, homemade condiments like relishes or cranberry sauce and re-heatable casseroles.

Along these lines, enlist children to help in the preparation - how else are they going to learn? It may take a little longer, but they will be proud to be a part of the team, they'll learn new skills and you will be instilling your family's holiday traditions in to them - which is what it's all about.

"If nothing else - brine that bird!"

If you are serving turkey, you must brine it. No excuses. Brining will save you from committing the biggest sin of all: dry meat. As the turkey sits in brine it absorbs liquid that will be lost during the cooking process, thus ensuring a moist bird. To prepare the brine, dissolve one cup each of kosher salt and sugar to every gallon of cold water. The turkey needs to sit in the brine in the refrigerator one hour for every pound. Average 14 pound turkey = 14 hours. Simple, but so worth it.

"About Sugar & Fat and Other Tips"

As far as I'm concerned, cream and butter are honored guests at the holiday table. You can diet the other 364 days of the year. If a recipe calls for cream and butter, please use them. Now is not the time to use puréed tofu in place of cream cheese. In catering, it's all about the 'mouth feel', which you only get from full-fat ingredients. And no, margarine is not the same as butter.

We use sugar in a variety of savory dishes. Most home cooks don't realize that a teaspoon of sugar will enhance any meat or vegetable dish. Even if the recipe doesn't call for sugar, adding a teaspoon of sugar to the dish will brighten the flavor and round out the overall taste.

A caterer's trick we sometimes use is all-purpose cooking spray. If your pie is looking a bit drab, spray lightly with cooking spray and dust with regular sugar. This technique can also be used to brighten up stuffed mushrooms or any vegetable side dish. A drizzle of olive oil over a bowl of soup has the same pleasing effect.
Make sure your menu is balanced, not all meat or spicy items. Provide some fresh fruits and vegetables for those who may be dieting or are vegetarian. Think of textures - a mixture of soft and crunchy foods. Don't repeat intensely flavored ingredients such as sage or basil in too many dishes, aim for variety.

Catering and rental companies can provide dinner wear and glass wear if you do not have enough for all of your guests. Most companies will also offer a delivery service if you want to order side dishes you don't have time to make. If you do as much preparation such as cleaning and cutting of vegetables as you can the day before, you will be able relax and enjoy your party.

If things don't work out exactly as you planned, don't stress out. Julia Child once had a fallen chocolate souffle and supposedly quipped, "We'll just put it in a pretty bowl and call it the most delicious pudding we've ever tasted."

Culinary Spice Article - Published in The News newspaper on September 24, 2010

Q: I have heard that eating watermelon seeds can help with “Traveler’s Sickness”. Is that true? Jessica in Mexico City



A: If you like the taste of them, watermelon seeds are not harmful and despite what your uncle may have told you, they won’t cause a watermelon to grow in your stomach! The seeds of watermelon are a good source of antioxidants, protein and fiber, but I don’t think they can prevent stomach problems while traveling.



You are probably thinking of pumpkin seeds, called pepitas in Mexico. Along with being delicious, pepitas are a traditional remedy for parasites. They have properties that help expel parasites such as tapeworms and roundworms. They can be found in markets throughout the country, usually already roasted and salted. You can make your own by spreading them on a cookie sheet and roasting at a low temperature for 15 minutes, then sprinkling with salt. Roasting them for a short time at a low temperature helps to preserve their healthy oils.



In addition to helping with parasites, pepitas have many nutritional qualities. They contain protein, iron, vitamins B & E, fiber, oil, and minerals. Pepitas aid milk production in lactating mothers and are used to reduce postpartum swelling of the hands and feet. The carotenoids and the omega-3 fats found in pepitas may have potential prostate benefits. They are high in zinc, which is also important to prostate health.



As with most seeds and nuts, pepitas have high oil content so they will go rancid quickly. Purchase in amounts you will use within a week or so. Store in a tightly sealed plastic bag. Pepitas can also be placed in freezer proof bags and frozen for up to 6 months or more.



Pepitas are great eaten plain as a snack; or you can put them in salads, sautéed vegetables or over your oatmeal in the morning. Give burgers a nutritional boost by adding ground pepitas to the meat before cooking. I like to puree pepitas for use in salad dressings. If you are suffering from stomach problems, try grinding pumpkin seeds into a powder, mix with aloe vera juice and drink on an empty stomach in the morning.



Q: What is the best way to get strong smells off of my wooden cutting board? My apples tasted like garlic this morning. I don’t want to use bleach, thanks. Kurt, Mexico City



A: The easiest way I have found to remove smells from wooden cutting boards is to sprinkle the board with kosher salt and scrub with a lime that is cut in half. The salt draws out moisture from the wood and the lime contains anti-bacterial properties. If this doesn’t work for you and you don’t want to use bleach, make a slurry of baking soda and boiling water. Scrub well and let it sit for 10 minutes. Rinse off and the smell should be gone.



If you have the room, you may want to consider buying a separate board to use when cutting food with strong odors such as onions and garlic. Be sure to scrub your wooden cutting boards well and regularly coat them in mineral oil to maintain their surface.

U.S. Embassy Cocktail Party

Last night we catered a cocktail party for the Public Affairs section. The guests were mainly reporters from Mexican TV and Newspapers, so we doubled the amount of food! From our experience, reporters arrive hungry, and last night was no different.

The host served some wonderful 2006 Mondavi that we shared in the kitchen after the gig - now that is the type of cient we love!

The menu for the evening:

Passed Appetizer Menú

Served Warm

Classic Gougères
Warm Gruyére Cheese Puffs with a touch of Cayenne

Antipasto Bites
Peppered Italian Salami with Pesto & Caramelized Onions baked in Mini-Tarts

Warm Brie Bites
Creamy Brie with Red Grapes in Crispy Wonton Cups

Served Room Temperature

Smoked Salmon Canapés
Smoked Salmon Mousse with Capers served in a Cucumber Cup

Beef Crostini
Tender Beef Tenderloin Crostini with Dijon Cream

Grilled Chevre Crostini

Goat Cheese with Tri-Color Marinated Roasted Peppers

Thai Salad Rolls
Fresh Rice Rolls of Marinated Tofu & Julienned Vegetables with Teriyaki Dipping Sauce

Dessert

Mini Brownie Bites with Rich Chocolate Frosting
Fresh Strawberries

Culinary Spice Article: Curious Green Chorizo & Storing Herbs & Spices.

Q: I saw chorizo in the grocery store that was green! Can you tell me what it is made of and how it’s used?

Mattie, Mexico City

A: Chorizo Verde is originally from Toluca, but now can be found in many parts of Mexico. It gets its distinctive green color from a mixture of chile poblano, spinach, chard, cilantro and parsley. The loud neon green chorizo usually found in supermarkets in Mexico City also contains food coloring. The traditional style has a darker green hue and can easily be found in local markets throughout the city, such as Mercado Medellin in Colonia Roma. Along with the added herbs, chorizo verde tastes similar to the regular red variety and the two types can be used interchangeably.

Q: What is the best way to store my dried spices and fresh herbs?

Jenna, Mexico City

A: Three factors affect the quality of spices: light, humidity and oxygen. The goal is to retain potency as long as possible, so store spices in tightly sealed containers away from light and heat. Although the most convenient place for your spice rack may be above your stove, moving your spices to a different location will keep them fresh much longer.

Whole herbs and spices last much longer than crushed or ground. Ground spices, with greater surface exposed, tend to lose their aromatic oils quickly. They also deteriorate faster than whole spices, so it’s best to buy the whole form and crush or grind just before using. This can be done with a mortar and pestle or a coffee grinder that is used only for this purpose. Lightly toasting spices in a dry pan before you grind them will freshen and release their natural oils.

Check spices for freshness regularly. The simplest way to do this is to smell them. The spice needs to be replaced if it lacks a strong aroma. If stored properly, ground spices will retain their flavor for six months to one year, and whole spices can last up to two years. Do not buy more than you will use within that time. A good tip is to write the date of purchase on the container so you can replace it as needed.

Refrigerating paprika, chili powder, and red pepper will preserve their vibrant colors. Buy from a purveyor with high turnover of product in order to get the freshest spice possible. Remember that high quality spices will last longer than cheaper varieties, and a screw-cap container is better than a flip-top box because it can be tightly resealed.

There are several methods to store fresh herbs. You can place them in a reseal-able plastic freezer bag and place in the refrigerator vegetable drawer. Avoid overly cold spots in the refrigerator, as the herbs will get damaged. Basil will turn black if it gets too cold.

You can store leafy herbs such as cilantro, parsley, and mint like fresh cut flowers. Trim off the bottom of the stems and place them in a glass with water. Cover the bunch of herbs with a perforated plastic bag to allow for some air circulation. If not using right away, change the water every couple of days. If treated carefully, most herbs should remain in good shape for about one week, although their flavor will diminish the longer they are stored.

Culinary Spice Article. From The News Newspaper. Original publish date: May 28th, 2010

Q: A lot of Mexican recipes call for Epazote. What is it and where can I buy it?
Allison in Mexico City

A Epazote is common herb in Mexican cooking. It has been used in Mexican cuisine for thousands of years, dating back to the Aztecs who used it for cooking as well as for medicinal purposes. It has a distinct flavor and is used to season a variety of dishes including beans, soups, salads and quesadillas. Its flavor is difficult to describe - I have heard the taste compared to smelly socks, gasoline, mint and lemon. But don’t let that scare you off, you just have to try it for yourself. Like cilantro, people tend to either love it or hate it. It is very strong, so use it sparingly is dishes. It will overpower the entire dish if you overdo it.

Use epazote to flavor soups, stews, meats, beans, moles or added to fillings for quesadillas and empanadas. It is best known for using with black beans, providing a rich, full flavor. It is not particularly good chopped fresh and sprinkled on top of dishes, as epazote is a more of a cooking herb. It is usually added toward the end of cooking to prevent bitterness in the finished product.. Epazote pairs well with cilantro, lime, chipotle peppers, huitlacoche (corn fungus), cheeses, pork fat, black beans, pinto beans, cumin, garlic, onion, corn, and squash blossoms.

Epazote contains compounds which act as an anti-gas agent and is used to relieve the abdominal discomfort that can come from eating beans. It is used traditionally to expel worms, kill parasites, increase perspiration and urination, stimulate digestion and as a natural remedy for menstrual cramps. Be careful as epazote can be poisonous if eaten in very large quantities.

You can find fresh epazote in most mercados and supermarkets around the city. It looks a bit like flat-leaf parsley, but the leaves are larger and pointed with serrated edges. Store fresh epazote in a glass of water, like a bouquet of flowers, or refrigerated wrapped in damp paper towels. Fresh epazote is best, but f you buy dried, make sure you get the leaves and not the stems. A teaspoon of crumbled epazote is equal to about six fresh leaves. There is no substitute for epozote. If you cannot find it, leave it out and use more of the other seasonings in the dish.


Q: What is an easy way to shred chicken meat for tacos?
Jack in Mexico City

Shredded chicken is necessary for making tacos, enchiladas, tostadas and stuffed chilies, among other important Mexican dishes. The best way I have found to do it is to simmer bone-in chicken in broth. The bones and seasoning add flavor to the chicken. The usual flavors to use are chicken broth, onions, garlic, peppercorns, salt and fresh chilies. You can also add in some of the sauce and spices that you will use in the final dish.

Simmer, do not boil, the chicken until very tender, about one hour. Cover and let sit until cool enough to handle. One way to shred the chicken is to use two forks, one to steady the chicken and the other fork to pull apart the meat, but I find it easier to just use your hands. The thickness of the shredded chicken depends on the dish you are making. It you need a finer shred, chop the chicken in to smaller pieces after shredding. If the chicken is a bit dry, mix in some cooking broth or salsa.

Culinary Spice Article. Published in The News newpaper: March 12, 2010

Q: I am confused when it comes to fish. I know that it contains healthy oils, but I am worried about mercury and pollution levels. Is it really safe to eat?
Richard, Mexico City


A: Fish can be very nutritious and is packed with omega-3s, B vitamins and lean protein. Unfortunately fish can also have some unhealthy contaminants and nearly all fish and shellfish contain traces of mercury. For most people, this is not a great concern as the body will naturally remove mercury from the system. However, over time, a steady diet rich in fish containing high levels of mercury can cause unhealthy accumulation levels in the body. You can limit your exposure to other environmental contaminants, such as PCBs, by trimming and skinning your fish. Unfortunately, while mercury is relatively easy to eliminate from your body, PCBs can stay in your body fat for years, so limit your exposure by never buying fish from waters known to be polluted.

Mercury affects brain development and the nervous system, so it is very important for young children and pregnant women to be aware of this risk. The FDA in the United States has released guidelines for children and women who are pregnant or trying to become pregnant. These guidelines state that no more than 12 oz of low mercury fish should be consumed weekly. Highest mercury fish should be avoided and high mercury fish should be kept to only three 6-oz servings per month. Below is a snapshot of fish with the highest and lowest levels of mercury, with their Spanish names. For a complete list please do an Internet search on www.FDA.gov.

These fish contain the highest levels of mercury and should probably be avoided if you are in the at-risk group:

Mackerel / Cabella
Marlin / Marlin
Shark / Cazon
Swordfish / Pez Espada
Tuna - (Canned Albacore & Ahi) / Atun

Here is a list of fish and shellfish that contain the lowest levels of mercury and can usually be eaten in moderation:

Anchovy / Anchoa
Catfish / Perro del Norte
Clam / Almejas
Crab / Jaiba
Crawfish/Crayfish / Langostino
Flounder / Platija
Herring / Arenque
Oyster / Ostiones
Perch / Perca
Salmon / Salmon
Sardine / Alacha
Scallop / Callo de Hacha
Shrimp / Camarones
Squid / Calamar
Tilapia / Tilapia
Trout / Trucha

Fish is a very healthy food when eaten in moderation. It is rich in omega-3 fatty acids, which are well known to protect the heart. Omega-3s help lower blood pressure, decrease triglyceride levels and are good for the kidneys. Fish is not the only source of omega-3, however. It is also present in flaxseeds, chia seeds, nuts and some spices such as cloves and dried oregano. Of course, there are now a variety of products available that are fortified with omega-3s as well. If you are really concerned that you are not getting enough of these nutrients, consider taking a supplement. There are some good brands that contain omega 3, 6 and 9, which are the complete essential fatty acids everyone needs.

Culinary Spice Article. From The News Newspaper, original publish date: Oct. 2, 2009. Organic Foods.

Q: I know that eating organically is better for you, but the products can be very expensive. Which are the most important foods to buy as organic and which aren’t worth the extra money?

Lesley, Mexico City

A: Organic produce has become mainstream as stores respond to consumers concern over pesticides. The price of organic produce is more expensive in general because it is more labor-intensive, and without the use of pesticides, crops are not as reliable. It is always better to buy organic, but if you have limited budget you should focus on produce that retains the most pesticides. The Environmental Working Group, a nonprofit organization based in Washington, D.C. has published a “dirty dozen” list of the top twelve types of produce that are most susceptible to pesticide residue:

1. Peaches
2. Apples
3. Sweet bell peppers
4. Celery
5. Nectarines
6. Strawberries
7. Cherries
8. Pears
9. Grapes
10. Spinach
11. Lettuce
12. Potatoes


Produce that does not warrant the added expense because they have the least pesticide residues:

1. Papayas
2. Broccoli
3. Cabbage
4. Bananas
5. Tomatoes
6. Sweet peas (frozen)
7. Asparagus
8. Mangoes
9. Pineapple
10. Sweet corn (frozen)
11. Avocados
12. Onions

Whether you buy organic or standard, you can take steps to reduce pesticide residue on your produce. Make sure that you scrub produce under running water with a soft scrubber. No not use soap. Soak produce in anti-bacterial solution for at least 15 minutes. Peel fruits and vegetables if they are not organic.

I also believe that organic meats are worth the expense if you have the option to purchase them. Certified organic meats are free of pesticides, herbicides, fungicides, preservatives, nitrates and synthetic fertilizers. They contain zero hormones, which are a real concern for pre-teen children. When buying standard grown meat, trim visible fat and skin because pesticide residues can collect in fat.

I have read conflicting reports on organic milk. In general, I think it’s a good idea to buy it as well, especially considering the hormone issues. Readers, I would like you hear your thoughts on buying organic. Do you look for organic options in stores? Which products do you buy and what is your opinion on organic milk? I will post your answers in an upcoming column.